Belukha ascent via Delaunay Peak

From 120 000₽ per person

Category:

Sport and active tourism

Subcategory:

Mountaineering and Climbing

Description

Type: Multi-day activity
* Vostochnaya Belukha (4506 m) is the highest point in Siberia, as well as one of the peaks included in the list of standards for the title of "Snow Leopard of Russia". And not for nothing! Steep slopes and difficult weather conditions make climbing a real challenge. You can complete it with us! We will make your ascent as comfortable and safe as possible. There are three equipped tent camps with camping equipment on the route (Tyungur, Ak-Kem, Tomsk parking lots). Food and gas are thrown into the upper camps by helicopter. All crossings are carried out light: we carry only personal equipment. On the eve of the ascent, snow and ice classes are held, where experienced instructors will teach you basic skills in working with climbing equipment. The ascent to the summit is carried out along the 4a difficulty category route through Delaunay Peak, the most difficult sections are covered with stationary railings for safety. The program is individual, with one or two participants per guide. - Length: pedestrian area approx. 100-120 km, day crossings from 10 to 30 km, max. climb up to 1200 m. - Difficulty: it is recommended to have hiking experience and good physical fitness. - Insurance: all participants must take out insurance in advance, indicating the type of sport – mountaineering for the entire climbing period. - Accommodation in rooms and shelters. - There is no cellular connection at the base on Lake Ak-Kem, there is a satellite connection for emergency calls. - Weather in the mountains: from -5 degrees at night to +30 degrees during the day; frequent weather changes during the day, precipitation in the form of snow and hail is possible on the passes. - Leisure: at the end of the ascent, hiking tours are possible, as well as rafting or horseback riding.
Available languages

Russian

Group type

Private

Age restrictions

Adults only (18+)

Training level

Medium

Transfer

Transfer not included

day 01
Transfer to Tungur, gathering at the base
Type of accommodation:Not included
Meeting at the Sokol base (Gorno-Altaysk). Here you can relax from the road, take a shower, and eat. You can arrive here in advance. It takes 15-20 minutes by taxi from the airport. On the same day, we recommend that you get to the Vysotnik base in Tungur. We can help you with arranging a transfer or buying plane tickets. If you go by car, then in good weather you will see the whole Altai and the change of terrain outside the windows: from endless fields of wheat, steppes and real mountains, drive along the Katun River, even see snow in the distance! In Tjungur, a late dinner at a cafe at the base, meeting with a guide, and plans for tomorrow. At the base, we stay in a hotel in 2-3 local rooms. Facilities on the floor. You can upgrade the standard of living or live in a tent at your discretion. There is a luggage storage and parking. There is a cafe, Internet. You can leave some of your belongings here until you return.
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day 02
Transfer to the Ak-kem base
Type of accommodation:Camping
Today is a long and difficult day: we have to get up early, pack our things and first drive to the parking lot "Three Birches" through the pass on GAZ 66. The road is usually very bad. Next, we have to walk along the trail to the Ak-Kem base camp 27 km (climb 1000 m per day). We don't carry tents, equipment, or food. We only go with our belongings because all the food is dropped off at the base by helicopter, and our mountain equipment is already waiting for us at the Tomsk parking camp. By evenly distributing the load, stopping for rest and snacks, we will reach our base in the evening, where dinner and, possibly, a sauna are waiting for us. Helicopter drop-off is possible for an additional fee. But we strongly recommend walking this road to get better acclimatization. We stay in a hotel or a campsite. Dinner, review of plans for tomorrow and the weather forecast. There is a luggage storage and a cafe at the base. There is no connection.
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day 03
Transfer to Tomsk parking lots
Type of accommodation:Camping
After breakfast, we take apart our equipment and prepare to leave for the second base camp – Tomsk parking lots. You can leave some of your belongings here until you return. Today we have the most difficult transition ahead of us: in addition to a distance of 15 km and an altitude of 1,200 meters, we have to go through different types of terrain: swamp, trail, glacier, scree, snow. Half of the route passes through the glacier. There is no path, there are rocks. But in the evening we will find ourselves right at the foot of Belukha – at the very Ak-Kem wall! The best photos are guaranteed. We stay in the shelter on beds in sleeping bags. Meals are served in the shelter's canteen. The price of the tour includes 2 overnight stays at the shelter.
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day 04
Snow and ice classes
Type of accommodation:Camping
Today we have a training session on snow and ice. During the training, we will perform all the necessary exercises and analyze possible situations.: 1) Equipment fitting: selection of boots, cats, gazebos, adjustment and hanging of equipment, putting on cats. 2) Walking in crampons with an ice axe: climbing / descending, traversing the slope, climbing / descending for "3 strokes" in various ways, self-holding on an ice axe. 3) Climbing / descending the railing, re-stitching and passing the knot. 4) Movement technique in a bundle: in pairs, more than 2 people. Overcoming cracks, ligament rupture, ligament self-retention, actions when one of the participants breaks off the ridge. After the training, lunch and exit to the Delaunay Pass. Exit to the Peak of Tomsk students from the pass. The assault camp on the Mensu Plateau is 3,500 m.
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day 05
Acclimatization access to the Delaunay Pass
Type of accommodation:Camping
Today our task is to pass the Delaunay pass, pass part of the Delaunay ridge, assess our readiness for climbing and weather conditions, and acclimatize. Exit to the crest of the Delaunay peak. The technique of climbing the Delaunay snow and ice pass is being worked out. The technique of movement in cats on rocks, the movement of a bundle along a rocky ridge, insurance for rocky ledges. Assessment of the participants' physical and psychological readiness for climbing. It is possible to return to the Tomsk parking lots. In the evening, we will analyze the day: we will evaluate the possibilities of climbing and solve all pressing issues. The decision to climb depends entirely on the senior instructor of the group. Early lights out.
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day 06
Exit to the assault camp
Type of accommodation:Camping
A rest day or a reserve day. Today we are resting before climbing. You can go down to the camp on Tomsky.
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day 07
Belukha Climbing
Type of accommodation:Camping
If the weather is favorable, an assault on the summit is scheduled for today. Early ascent and exit to the top. Traverse over Delaunay Peak to Vostochnaya Belukha. Most of the way up is covered with handrails by guides. The climbing route runs along the ridge and has a climbing difficulty category of 4a. Descent on the way up to the camp on the Delaunay ridge. If it is impossible to organize a safe descent along the ascent route, the guides may decide to organize a descent along a different route. Rest at the assault camp. It is possible to descend to the Tomsk parking lots.
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day 08
Reserve day
Type of accommodation:Camping
Continuation of the descent, or a reserve day for climbing. According to the plan, today we will go down to the camp at the Tomsk parking lots or further to the base at Ak-Kem.
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day 09
Recreation at the Ak-Kem base
Type of accommodation:Camping
Descent to Ak-Kem. Rest. Bathhouse. A radial exit to the valley of the Seven Lakes or Yarla is possible. After the group returns to the base camp on Ak-Kem, various types of programs are possible.: descent along the way up the Ak-Kemu to the lower base; crossing the Kara-Tyurek pass into the valley of the Kucherla River and descent to the lower base; rest and radial exits from the upper base and departure to the lower base by helicopter (for an additional fee).
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day 10
Descent to the Tungur base
Type of accommodation:Camping
Today we have to repeat our journey from the base camp to Tungur, but in reverse order. We go light and down. It's easy to walk. The usual travel time to the Three Birch parking lot is 5 hours. There's a cafe and a newspaper waiting for us. Another 1.5-2 hours by car, and we are at the base. There are already all the benefits here.
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day 11
A day of rest in Tungura
Type of accommodation:Not included
A day of rest at the base in Tyungur or an active program of the participants' choice: · rafting along the Katun River to the mouth of Ak-Kem and the tract with stone sculptures "babami", · excursion to the museums of the village of Verkhny Uymon (Museums: Old Believers, Roerich, Local History, stone cutting workshop), · hiking on Mount Bayda or along the valley the Kucherla River to the petroglyphs. In the evening, a festive dinner and a sauna.
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Details

Included

loading and unloading on GAZ - 66

rental of group-wide (including tents) and climbing equipment

registration of passes to the border zone

meals on the route

delivery of food and gas to the camp at Ak-kem and Tomsk parking lots

accommodation at the bases: Tyungur, Ak-kem

accommodation in prepared assault camps: Tomsk camps, camp 4200

provision of ropes throughout the climbing path

The instructor has a first aid kit and walkie-talkies.

bathhouse twice

Excluded

railway or air tickets

road crossings, including Gorno-Altaysk - Tyungur transfer

hotel accommodation in Gorno-Altaysk before and after the hike

meals at the cafe on the Gorno-Altaysk - Tyungur road and at the base

rental of personal equipment (backpack, sleeping bag, foam mat, mountain boots)

horseback riding (optional)

additional baths (optional)

helicopter drop-off (including personal equipment) to the Ak-kem base or Tomsk parking lots

Requirements for the participant

We issue passes to the border area. You must provide us with your passport information in advance. For Russians, the period of registration of a pass is 1 month, for citizens of other countries - at least 2 months.

Recommend to bring

Personal equipment: climbing pants (membrane/windstoper), membrane windbreaker; warm thermal underwear; powder puff; 2 pairs of gloves; sunglasses (S4 factor); sunscreen and lipstick (at least 50 factor); mountain boots; trekking poles.

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