* A walk through the places of immortal labor "Moscow and Muscovites". On the route: Sukharevskaya Square, Grachevka, Red Light district, Ad tavern, Truba, legendary Hermitage restaurant, Sandunovsky Baths, Petrovka, Gilyarovsky Center, Stoleshnikov Lane, House of the Governor General of Moscow, Kamergersky Lane, Moscow Art Theater, Bolshaya Dmitrovka, Bolshoi and Maly Theaters, cult hotel and restaurant "Metropol". Moscow is a city of contrasts. This statement has not been in doubt at all times. Many visiting travelers have written about the luxury and squalor of the Eurasian capital. But perhaps no publicist has ever felt Moscow's contrasts as reverently and sensitively as Vladimir Alekseevich Gilyarovsky. An indefatigable adventurer, a devoted friend of the creative elite, a regular in restaurants, a connoisseur of the slums, a friend of beggary, is "his own" everywhere, always among "his own". During the tour, we will walk in the footsteps of Uncle Gilai, refresh our memory of everyday sketches of bygone eras, and imagine the "passions" that took place on the other side of the walls of the handsome central houses. Let's look at distant times through the prism of the fates of the personalities glorified by Gilyarovsky. The heroes of the excursion are reckless cab drivers, "market protectors", "intelligent" police officers, embezzling officials, creative scammers, "claflinchers" and "victims of public temperament", loving intellectuals, resourceful entrepreneurs. Let's analyze the customs and characters of the century before last in order to finally recognize the undoubted correctness of A.S. Griboyedov: "Houses are new, but prejudices are old." They say about such excursions "a tour of Moscow for Muscovites." But the tour about Gilyarovsky and his time is not only for Muscovites, because far beyond the capital, people have read and are reading the novel "Moscow and Muscovites," and the seedy places and bohemian color are of interest to any layman and researcher.