Climbing Mount Aktru

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From 80 000₽ per group

Category:

Sport and active tourism

Subcategory:

Mountaineering and Climbing

Description

Type: Multi-day activity

* One of the main peaks of the North Chuya range. It is one of the most popular mountain climbers who come to the Aktru alpine camp. The climbing route runs along the eastern ridge (3A KT) and includes both rocky areas in the ridge part and snow-ice on the upper slope in the form of a so-called "sickle". The route offers views of the main highest ranges of Altai: Severo-Chuisky, Yuzhno-Chuisky, Katunsky. Dates in the 2024 season. February: 19-25 March: 4-10 April: 15-21 May: 29.04-5.05, 8-14 June: 17-23 August: 29.07-4.08, 12-18 September: 16-22

Available languages

English

Russian

Group type

Group

Age restrictions

Adults only (18+)

Training level

Advanced

Basic

Medium

Professional

Transfer

Transfer included

day 01

First day - check-in

Type of accommodation:Tent

Arrival in Kurai village from Gorno-Altaysk 392 km, 5 hours. Meeting with the guide. Transfer by UAZ car from Kurai village to Aktru camp (32 km, 3 hours, 2150 m above sea level). Summer: accommodation in tents, cooking with gas. Winter: accommodation in a heated hotel, dinner in a cafe.

day 02

Day Two - Blue Lake

Type of accommodation:Tent

Summer: transfer from the Aktru camp to the Blue Lake. Trekking along the valley of the Aktru River to the trough valley of the Bolshoy Aktru glacier. Most of the trail runs along the moraine ramparts. Lunch on the route is a lunch package. Parking on the moraine at the Glaciologists' hut. 5.5 km, 3-6 h, 2823 m.n. o. Winter: ice classes on the Maly Aktru glacier. Summer: accommodation in tents. Cooking with gas. Winter: accommodation in a heated hotel, meals in a cafe.

day 03

Day three - Ice classes

Type of accommodation:Tent

Summer: ice classes on the Bolshoy Aktru glacier. Classes are held all day. The following exercises are practiced during the classes: 1) Equipment fitting: adjusting the safety system, self-insurance whiskers, fitting cats under boots, hanging equipment on the safety system and backpack, dressing cats. 2) Special attention is paid to walking in crampons with an ice axe: ascent / descent, slope traverse, ascent / descent in "3 strokes" in different ways, depending on the condition of the snow and ice surface, self-retention on the ice axe. 3) Ascent / descent through the railings, traverses, passage of the oblique railing, passage of the node. Classes are organized on the steeper part of the glacier. 4) Movement technique in a bundle: in pairs, more than 2 people. Overcoming cracks, ligament rupture, ligament self-retention, actions in case of disruption of one of the participants. Winter: transfer from Aktru camp to Blue Lake. Trekking along the valley of the Aktru River to the trough valley of the Bolshoy Aktru glacier. Most of the trail runs along the moraine ramparts. Lunch on the route is a lunch package. Overnight at the Glaciologists' hut. 5.5 km, 3-6 h, 2823 m.n.a. Summer: accommodation in tents. Cooking with gas. Winter: accommodation in the glaciologists' hut. Cooking with gas.

day 04

Fourth day - Climbing

Type of accommodation:Tent

Early ascent, departure from the camp on the Blue Lake (3:00). Ascent in bundles on the Bolshoy Aktru glacier. Climb the scree slope to the saddle between the peaks of Aktru and Trainees. Climbing in bundles along a rocky ridge to the snow-ice cap of the Aktru peak. The organization of the railing (ice / snow), climbing the railing (150 m) to the top of Aktru (4044 m). Descent along the way of ascent. Return to the camp. Depending on the pace of the group, the state of the glacier's snow and ice surface, and weather conditions, the route takes up to 14 hours. Summer: accommodation in tents. Dinner on the gas. Winter: accommodation in the glaciologists' hut. Cooking with gas.

day 05

The fifth day is a reserve day

Type of accommodation:Tent

A reserve day for bad weather. In case of saving a reserve day, it is possible to climb one of the peaks in the Blue Lake area (Jubilee, Kyzyl-Tash) or conduct additional training on the glacier. Summer: accommodation in tents. Dinner on the gas. Winter: accommodation in the glaciologists' hut. Cooking with gas.

day 06

The sixth day is a reserve day

Type of accommodation:Tent

A reserve day for bad weather. In case of saving a reserve day, it is possible to climb one of the peaks in the Blue Lake area (Jubilee, Kyzyl-Tash) or conduct additional training on the glacier. Descent from the Blue Lake to the Aktru alpine camp on the way up. Summer: accommodation in tents. Dinner on the gas. Winter: accommodation in a heated hotel, dinner in a cafe.

day 07

Seventh day - it's time to go home

Type of accommodation:Tent

Transfer by UAZ car from Aktru camp to Kurai village. Departure from Kurai village.

Details

Included

Transfer from Gorno-Altaysk to Kurai village and back

Products for the entire ascent according to the program

Dinners and breakfasts at the cafe on the days specified in the program (winter option)

Hotel accommodation at the Aktru camp, on the days specified in the program (winter option)

Accommodation in the glaciologists' hut at the assault camp on the Blue Lake (winter option)

Public equipment (tents, gas burners, boilers, gas, remote control kit, walkie-talkies, etc.)

Public climbing equipment (ropes, carabiners, safety points, etc.)

Group first aid kit

Guide services (1 guide for 3 participants)

Registration of the group in the Ministry of Emergency Situations

Getting on the route and being thrown off the route in a UAZ car

Insurance from the National Academy of Sciences for the sport of "mountaineering"

Consultation on the program of preparation for the ascent

Excluded

Personal climbing equipment (you can rent a complete set at the Aktru alpine camp)

Sauna at camp sites

Luggage storage at the campsite

Requirements for the participant

Climbing experience

It is advisable to have experience of repeated climbing routes of the 2a/2b category of difficulty.

Good physical fitness

One of the criteria for assessing one's own physical readiness for climbing may be the ability to run 10 km over rough terrain in less than 1 hour.

It is necessary to physically prepare the body for climbing at least 6 months in advance

Secure possession of safety equipment

It is necessary to move confidently in the crampons with an ice axe in a bundle, to be able to climb and descend the railing through the stitches.

If you do not have such experience, then you must complete a course on the use of safety equipment yourself in the process of preparing for the ascent.

You can complete this training at any climbing club or with a private instructor.

No injuries or illnesses that prevent climbing

It is very important that participants evaluate their chronic illnesses and injuries in advance.

It is necessary to be objective when assessing the possibility of climbing: it should be understood that injuries of the musculoskeletal system or traumatic brain injuries can be a great obstacle not only for the participant personally, but also for all other participants of the ascent

The organizers of the program should be informed about the health conditions that may hinder climbing.

Psychological readiness for extreme situations related to the complications of the route of an objective and subjective nature

The program includes an acclimatization training day.

On this day, the participants demonstrate their readiness to climb.

The assessment of the participants' readiness for climbing is given by the guides of the group

Guides have the right to suspend individual participants from attempting to climb if the latter are not ready according to the above criteria.

Recommend to bring

A SET OF PERSONAL CLIMBING EQUIPMENT:

Cats

Mustache self-insurance

Carabiners with a coupling 5 pcs.

Manual clamp (zhumar)

Trigger device (figure eight)

The ice axe

Safety system (gazebo/harness)

Helmet

PERSONAL CLIMBING EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHING:

Mountain/climbing boots for cats (hard, with or without welts)

Warm socks (wool/synthetic)

Trekking socks (preferably synthetic) several pairs

Waterproof and windproof jacket (from 10000 mm high, better than Goretex)

Waterproof and windproof pants (from 10000 mm high, preferably Goretex)

Thermal underwear (synthetic/wool)

Warm sweater (Polartec/fleece/wool)

Warm pants (Polartec/fleece/wool)

Down jacket or synthetic jacket/vest

Warm hat (Polartec/fleece/wool)

Sun headdress (kerchief/cap/buff)

Waterproof and windproof mittens with insulation (down/synthetic)

Thin gloves 2 pairs (Polartec/fleece/wool)

Backpack (volume 65-100 liters)

Sleeping bag with comfort temperature from 0 °

Sleeping bag mat (made of thick polyurethane/inflatable)

A headlamp with spare batteries

Sunglasses (with UV protection filter)

Sunscreen with a protection level of 30-50

Individual first aid kit

Shoe covers/gaiters

Tableware (mug, bowl, spoon, knife)

Water flask

ADDITIONAL EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHING:

Lightweight running shoes

Sandals/Flip-flops

Thin sweatpants

Long Sleeve Shirt/T-shirt

T-shirts - 1-2 pcs.

Balaclava/windproof mask

Trekking poles

Thermos flask (0.5-0.7 l)

Starting point

* Meeting of all participants at the airport of Gorno-Altaysk or in Gorno-Altaysk. Meets the guide personally or the transfer driver. Departure to Tyungur village no later than 10:00 (local time). Accordingly, you must arrive in Gorno-Altaysk no later than the specified departure time. If your flight arrives later, you must arrive 1 day earlier in advance.

Finish point

* The city of Gorno-Altaysk or the airport of Gorno-Altaysk at 19:00 on the last day of the program.

How to get

* 1. The plane to Gorno-Altaysk. 2. Railway to Biysk, then bus to Gorno-Altaysk. 3. Private car.

Cancellation policy

* Cancellation of a reservation 30 days or less before the start of the tour - the prepayment will not be refunded. In other cases, a refund minus the actual expenses incurred (at least 15% of the tour price).

Popular tickets

Summer version of the program with accommodation in tents (from May to September)

Individual summer

95 000₽

per group

Summer version of the program with accommodation in tents (from May to September)

Group winter

105 000₽

per group

Winter version of the program with accommodation in a hotel and a mountain hut (from February to April)

Snow Travel

Organizer

Организация и проведение фрирайд программ в Лужбе и на Поднебесных Зубьях. Здесь вы не встретите раскатанные склоны. 100% powder days. Только backcountry, никаких канаток и прочих механизированных средств подъёма на гору. И самое главное, мы это сделаем в ваши выходные. Это реально, проверено! Берем снегоступы, камуса, сплиты и вперед в самое снежное место Сибири! Летом - восхождения, треккинг, сплавы в хорошей компании, для любителей настоящего самобытного туризма.

Climbing Mount Aktru

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